Last week I made a slightly longer but narrower version of my Surfie board. I sat down with my daughter, Sunday, and drew with pastel crayons on the board and then painted over it with clear gloss enamel. Doing the art was a lot of fun. To my surprise the art has lasted many surfs now and seems like a good way to decorate a board.
I am often thinking about why I like the little wood body board so much. I think it is the simplicity of it. I like just having the most basic board to have the most fun on the wave. All my life I have surfed on top of the water and I now find a huge buzz with being more in the water. I like being closer to the wave.
This is a little video of the board and one long wave I caught at Little Cove, Noosa. You can see how I push down on the nose to get speed and then relax on the board drift back in the whitewash as the wave backs off. I was so stoked on this wave that I just came in.
A few days later the swell was still around and I got another nice wave. Tanya Muskat got this sequence. The flex of the Surfie lets you pull into little tubes and then drift through the curtain and ride the wave to shore.
